CB Bureaua) Why?
a) Because the cotton it is made of is the world’s dirtiest crop. The cotton produced on about two per cent of the world’s farmland consumes nearly 20 per cent of insecticides and pesticides – nearly double of any crop produced across the globe. Not only this, as insects and pests are gradually becoming resistant to these chemicals, ever-increasing amounts are being applied. Moreover, the ‘intensity kill’ of these chemicals is also being amplified.
b) Because those ‘easy care’ tags that your cotton clothes carry come after the clothes are treated with chlorine bleach, heavy metal dyes and formaldehyde resins. Actually, the chemicals used in dyeing the cotton fabrics are among those dangerous chemicals that are responsible for contaminating the earth’s groundwater reserves.
Reality
The fact that points a) and b) are trying to establish here is that less than 10 per cent of the chemicals applied to
cotton – at any stage – accomplish their task; the rest are absorbed into the plant, air, soil, water and eventually our bodies. Sprayed in the air, these highly toxic chemicals drift into surroundings, poison farm workers, contaminate air, ground and surface water, and cause major ecosystem imbalances.
It was ‘okay’ until we did not know”and making fashion statements with those designer cuts was in vogue. But now, with friendlier, healthier, cheaper and yet fashionable alternatives around, wearing the same shirt is no less than a sin. It might sound like an extreme statement coming from a treehugger, but it does make sense if you see it this way: cotton clothes made in the conventional manner are made at the cost of a few farmers’ lives. To simplify, farmers using toxic chemicals have shorter life spans as they are slow-poisoning their bodies on an everyday basis.
Moreover, the scene in India is worse with farmers’ suicides, especially by cotton farmers, which have been making headlines since the 1990s. Investigations into these suicides have revealed that in order to buy GM seeds, some farmers get into unmanageable debts and when the going gets too tough, some decide that the only way out is to take their own lives.
The way out
So, should we be starting a large-scale campaign against cotton clothes, making it a worldwide revolution, and bringing cotton farming and the entire clothing production industry to a standstill?
This of course is not possible, and even if it could happen, the fallout will beget a whole new bunch of complications that may turn out to be self-defeating for the original purpose.
So what shall we do?
The only way out is to encourage organic farming: let insects eat their share (in measures) and pay a few rupees extra to the farmer for that smaller (maybe half-eaten) yet chemical-free cotton bud.
This solution is quite simple and practical. It has already been successfully implemented in a few pockets globally by forward-thinking social entrepreneurs and lovers of the earth who are standing by these entrepreneurs. These entrepreneurs have tied up with farmers to grow cotton organically – produced with no sprays (insecticides and pesticides), no GM seeds, and no artificial fertilizers. Organic cotton represents a return to safe and sustainable practices. It is grown with natural fertilizers and is free from toxic chemicals.
Organic farmers rely on crop rotation to replenish and maintain soil fertility. Mechanical cultivation and botanical or biological means are used to control pests and weeds. A field is certified ‘organic’ after being pesticide-free for at least three years, and the cotton there is processed according to international organic standards.
Once a farm is certified organic, the farmer is spared the extra costs of chemicals, and his produce, for being an organic rarity, fetches him more money than artificially/conventionally produced cotton.
Rewriting the fashion code
The fabric produced with this cotton does not go to traditional dyeing factories, but to select facilities wherein they use organically-produced, eco-friendly vegetable colours to get those earthly yet trendy hues – the process consumes far less water and electricity as compared to that in the ordinary dyeing factory. Interestingly, the garments produced at these facilities are in sync with the latest trends – they are designed and styled by professionals and are being retailed parallel with other fashion brands online or through shop-in-shops.
Shishir Goenka, managing director of Fusion Clothing, is one of those entrepreneurs who pioneered the organic clothing revolution in the country. The company’s Do You Speak Green? (popularly known as DUSG?) label is one of the largest selling organic and bamboo clothing brands in the country. The brand is gaining popularity not only because of its ‘organic’ nature, but also for offering cuts and styles in sync with fashion trends. Be it spring, summer or fall collections, these organically produced clothes surpass many brands in terms of designs.
DUSG is the sole brand in the country that has managed to get Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) certification.
‘We have been exporting knitted garments, especially organic and bamboo clothing, across the globe for over 20 years. The last 4″5 years have seen the urban Indian consumer becoming more aware about what he eats and what he wears. Besides, the farmers too needed an alternative to the conventional form of producing cotton. Hence, DUSG was conceptualized.
‘As expected, the brand steadily gained popularity solely through word-of-mouth. In the last two years, we have grown by over 100 per cent and the majority of sales happen through our webstore.’
Commenting on the challenges, Goenka said, ‘The ideal scenario would be where there is major competition among organic clothing manufacturers – one where customers and farmers are the end beneficiaries. However, that is not happening in the near future as we are still at a “build consciousness and spread awareness” stage. There is more talk and less translation into our daily living. Hence, a major challenge is to identify and reach out to conscious consumers and also continue to make them more conscious of what they wear.’
‘It is not just about the health of the earth; organically produced clothes keep our health also in a better condition. For instance, people with allergies and chemical sensitivity especially benefit from organic cotton clothing, as conventional cotton may retain harmful toxic residues. Even if you don’t have sensitive skin, organic cotton will just feel better against your skin,’ said Goenka while talking about the benefits of organic clothes.
When asked about the pricing, as a large number of Indians are more price-sensitive and less environment- or even health-sensitive, 
Goenka talked about the peculiarity of the situation thus: ‘Organic farming would have been easier and the money spent to treat toxic residues and making the farm organic could have been saved if the problem was not created in the first place. Unfortunately, the farms have been damaged considerably and the initial costs of going organic, getting certifications and still not being sure that the produce will come through, make organic cotton a rarity. Hence, it is expensive too. Over time, however, I believe that we will have more and more organic farms and, as a result, productivity of the soil will be richer. This will help in price reduction of organic cotton, and gradually of the organic clothes too.’
Well, until such a day comes, the market will continue to grow at a relatively slow pace. Of course, the conscious ones will continue to pay a little bit extra for organic products, as the payback is tremendous: for oneself as well as the planet.
Note: This feature story is a part of ‘responsible products and services promotions’ that CauseBecause does for its sustainability.